When in travel mode and looking for accommodation, one of the main criteria is a balcony or a terrace. Over the years we have experienced spectacular views in Ikaria, Samos, San Lazzaro…..Balconies have evoked inspiration and reflection such as those in Athens and Ubud. Spaces made for reflection and inspiration. Surprisingly, Italians seem to treat balconies as functional constructions. Essentially places for growing beautiful plants and flowers in pots. Not a bad thing in itself, but sitting on balconies in San Domenico Talao, Calatabiano and Tropea, we were alone in balcony bliss. I often felt the urge to shout across the piazzas, please come out and smell the geraniums! It would have spoiled the moment.
Ordering a strong cappuccino, and after midday, elicits incredulous looks from Italian baristas. Surely you know it’s afternoon! and did you miss out on your espresso earlier this morning? The Italians have done their best to adapt their morning refreshment to the needs of other cultures by serving it in the afternoon, but strong cappuccino does push the boundaries almost to breaking point. With typical Italian graciousness it is served, albeit with a quizzical expression.
Men don’t wear shorts in Italy. Even on the hottest days, long pants are de rigueur. Tourists wear shorts, not locals. On the other hand almost without exception women swim in two piece bathers, regardless of age or body shape or size. The lack of inhibition is admirable, as is the very commendable idea of women wearing sneakers, even with more formal attire during the day. Of course runners do wear shorts and it’s fascinating that Italians have their own unique style of running. Hands held high and against the chest, arms barely moving, with small steps, more often than not high up on their toes, slight side to side head wiggle. Fascinating.
Older men gathering in piazzas is a cultural phenomenon throughout Italy. Animated conversations reverberate around the square. To be a fly on the wall amongst the passionate gesticulations, even without understanding the language, is to soak up Italian maleness at the more advanced stages of life. Playing cards, the occasional chess game and the obligatory espresso are props that enhance the experience of the participants.
Intercity trains take passengers, or should I say, customers, long distances between major cities. They are well staffed with conductors wandering up and down the carriages of these lengthy trains. The conductors are omnipresent but seemingly with only a cursory interest in sighting tickets. Many a train ride we weren’t required to produce our tickets, or in some instances, produce one between the three of us. Occasionally the conductors (or more correctly customer assistance officials) gather in twos and threes to confer about matters of importance displayed on I-Pads. Every now and then they interact with a customer in relation to rail matters. Very occasionally they encounter a recalcitrant customer who wants to challenge something about the train system, tickets or just be aggressive towards someone in a uniform. Announcements over the train PA point out that conductors are officials empowered by the law to undertake identity checks and seek information from the customer. Failure to comply can result in arrest! It has to be said that the only two incidents we saw the conductors were calm and sensitive even in the face of abuse. Impressive attitude.
Fines do seem harsh when playing with a ball in an open space in the historic quarter of Monopoli can incur a 50 Euro fine. A big dent in a child’s pocket money! At the same time mobile phone use whilst driving and riding motorcycles seems to go unpenalised.
I’m always keen to learn more about recycling. Recycling is big in Italy. Each AirBnB host was keen to show us the various bins for separating waste. Collection happens each day and different days are designated for each classification of waste. There are also bins on the streets which use the same separation and classification. Signs with instructions abound. There seems to be two downsides however. Each classification uses plastic bags both in the domestic situation and on the streets. Apart from the proliferation of plastic, the bags are left on the footpath where, subject to weather and interference from roaming animals, they may find their way into the rightful destination. The intention is to be applauded.
And smoking….. don’t get me started! Just shows what a great effort Australia has done in decreasing smoking rates so significantly over the years! People of all ages still smoke in big numbers in Italy.
Signage and directions – either non-existent or unhelpful. Thank God for Google Maps.
One of the loveliest expressions of love for each other is the way Italians greet friends and family in the street. It’s unbounded joy and so great to see encounters begin in such a demonstrative way. All power to the Italians who have welcomed us, helped us, fed us and been so hospitable.
It’s like leaving home as we begin our next part of the travel adventure.